• Partition question

    From Lee Green@454:1/1 to All on Friday, July 10, 2020 20:34:00
    I've got a 2.5 harddrive that has a C: and D: partition, I want to get
    rid of the D: drive and recover the space to the C: drive but no matter
    what I try it doesn't happen.

    I have tried move, extend, merge, etc what's the trick? I don't
    remember it being this hard.

    I also have an old recovery partition that I want to get rid of and
    recover the space to C:

    TIA
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  • From Barry Martin@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Saturday, July 11, 2020 08:40:00

    Hi Lee!

    LEE GREEN wrote to ALL <=-

    I've got a 2.5 harddrive that has a C: and D: partition, I want
    to get rid of the D: drive and recover the space to the C: drive
    but no matter what I try it doesn't happen.

    I have tried move, extend, merge, etc what's the trick? I don't
    remember it being this hard.

    I also have an old recovery partition that I want to get rid of
    and recover the space to C:

    You probably want a Windows solution of which I can't help but the
    GParted utility under Linux is able to run from a bootable CD/USB stick
    and can recover data from partitions, resize, etc.

    Well, there is mention of 'gparted windows'. Check at gparted.org. You
    want 'gparted live'.


    ¯ ®
    ¯ BarryMartin3@ ®
    ¯ @MyMetronet.NET ®
    ¯ ®
    ¯ (Humans know what ®
    ¯ to remove.) ®

    ... Just remember to decant SLOWLY from the paper bag.
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  • From Ky Moffet@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Sunday, July 12, 2020 09:59:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    I've got a 2.5 harddrive that has a C: and D: partition, I want to get
    rid of the D: drive and recover the space to the C: drive but no matter
    what I try it doesn't happen.

    I have tried move, extend, merge, etc what's the trick? I don't
    remember it being this hard.

    I also have an old recovery partition that I want to get rid of and
    recover the space to C:

    Over 2TB has to be partitioned as GPT, not MBR. MBR only supports a
    drive of 2TB max.

    Older systems don't support GPT, *but* if your partition software knows
    GPT, then it can chop up the disk into under-2TB partitions which the non-GPT-capable system can then see. (I've done this with 3TB drives so
    an old quad core could see them.)

    Probably the partition software is looking at BIOS support and saying
    nope, no can do. And if you do manage to merge it, you may lose access
    to the entire disk, at least on this system (it should still be readable
    on a newer BIOS with GPT support).

    So I would most strongly recommend that you leave well enough alone, and
    just use the secondary partitions as Another Big Folder.

    ===

    BTW this is why I just bought a 2TB data drive even tho I have a stack
    of 3TB drives -- the 2TB will be readable on anything from a late P4 on
    up, while the 3TB have to be chopped up into smaller partitions before
    they can be read on the older systems.

    I no longer mount drives internally; now I use iStarUSA hotswap bays. SO
    much easier, especially since multiboot no longer works right with
    Windows (and is risky now that it rewrites the boot sector when you
    change OSs, rather than just pointing at a different one), and was
    always risky if you cross species lines and multiboot Windows and linux.
    Now I just swap the boot drive, and every OS uses the same data drive (formatted NTFS).
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  • From Ky Moffet@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Sunday, July 12, 2020 10:03:00
    BTW my favorite partition software nowadays is PartitionWizardFree. If
    you can find old v9.x it is available as a bootable ISO (no OS needed);
    the current free version is Windows only.

    It's pretty smart about only doing partitions the BIOS can support,
    aligning SSDs correctly, and so on.

    https://www.partitionwizard.com/free-partition-manager.html
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  • From Lee Green@454:1/1 to Ky Moffet on Sunday, July 12, 2020 11:33:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    I've got a 2.5 harddrive that has a C: and D: partition, I want to get
    rid of the D: drive and recover the space to the C: drive but no matter what I try it doesn't happen.

    I have tried move, extend, merge, etc what's the trick? I don't
    remember it being this hard.

    I also have an old recovery partition that I want to get rid of and recover the space to C:

    I guess I should have mentioned it's only 250GB and MBR.
    The D: partition is 10GB that I would like to get rid of and return the
    unused space to the C: partition.
    I also want to get rid of an old leftover recovery partition on it.

    Over 2TB has to be partitioned as GPT, not MBR. MBR only supports a
    drive of 2TB max.

    Older systems don't support GPT, *but* if your partition software knows GPT, then it can chop up the disk into under-2TB partitions which the non-GPT-capable system can then see. (I've done this with 3TB drives so
    an old quad core could see them.)

    Probably the partition software is looking at BIOS support and saying
    nope, no can do. And if you do manage to merge it, you may lose access
    to the entire disk, at least on this system (it should still be readable
    on a newer BIOS with GPT support).

    So I would most strongly recommend that you leave well enough alone, and just use the secondary partitions as Another Big Folder.

    ===

    BTW this is why I just bought a 2TB data drive even tho I have a stack
    of 3TB drives -- the 2TB will be readable on anything from a late P4 on
    up, while the 3TB have to be chopped up into smaller partitions before
    they can be read on the older systems.

    I no longer mount drives internally; now I use iStarUSA hotswap bays. SO much easier, especially since multiboot no longer works right with
    Windows (and is risky now that it rewrites the boot sector when you
    change OSs, rather than just pointing at a different one), and was
    always risky if you cross species lines and multiboot Windows and linux. Now I just swap the boot drive, and every OS uses the same data drive (formatted NTFS).

    Sounds interesting got a URL, I've just been using a USB to 2.5 SATA
    interface to mess and boot with this drive.

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  • From Lee Green@454:1/1 to Ky Moffet on Sunday, July 12, 2020 12:03:00
    I was using MINIToolPartionWizard but the newer version didn't support
    cloning to SSD IIRC so I went with AOMEI Partition Assistant.

    BTW my favorite partition software nowadays is PartitionWizardFree. If
    you can find old v9.x it is available as a bootable ISO (no OS needed);
    the current free version is Windows only.

    It's pretty smart about only doing partitions the BIOS can support, aligning SSDs correctly, and so on.

    https://www.partitionwizard.com/free-partition-manager.html

    þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com

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  • From Lee Green@454:1/1 to Barry Martin on Sunday, July 12, 2020 12:05:00

    Hi Lee!

    LEE GREEN wrote to ALL <=-

    I've got a 2.5 harddrive that has a C: and D: partition, I want
    to get rid of the D: drive and recover the space to the C: drive
    but no matter what I try it doesn't happen.

    I have tried move, extend, merge, etc what's the trick? I don't remember it being this hard.

    I also have an old recovery partition that I want to get rid of
    and recover the space to C:

    You probably want a Windows solution of which I can't help but the
    GParted utility under Linux is able to run from a bootable CD/USB stick
    and can recover data from partitions, resize, etc.

    I already have the software just trying to remember what operation to
    perform to do what I'm trying to do, getting old is a bitch.

    Well, there is mention of 'gparted windows'. Check at gparted.org. You want 'gparted live'.


    ¯ ®
    ¯ BarryMartin3@ ®
    ¯ @MyMetronet.NET ®
    ¯ ®
    ¯ (Humans know what ®
    ¯ to remove.) ®

    ... Just remember to decant SLOWLY from the paper bag.
    --- MultiMail/Win32 v0.47
    þ wcECHO 4.2 ÷ ILink: The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA
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  • From Ky Moffet@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Sunday, July 12, 2020 23:50:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    I also have an old recovery partition that I want to get rid of and recover the space to C:

    I guess I should have mentioned it's only 250GB and MBR.

    Oh, I took 2.5 to mean 2.5TB, not 2.5 inch. Scratch that explanation!

    The D: partition is 10GB that I would like to get rid of and return the unused space to the C: partition.
    I also want to get rid of an old leftover recovery partition on it.

    Okay, now that makes more sense. The recovery partition might be hidden. Doesn't explain D: tho UEFI will grab a bunch of space for its own use.

    I wonder if your boot partition is actually D: due to being historically
    the original boot location. That is, even tho Windows says it lives on
    C: the boot files are in fact on D: I would check that, just in case.

    Given that... I think rather than trying to nuke these partitions, I'd
    settle for resizing them as small as they'll go, and just eat the drive letter. That way IF there are boot files in some unexpected place, you
    won't accidentally nuke your system.

    XP and before would stay put -- if you installed it on F: it would STAY
    on F: -- but Win 7/8/10 rewrite the boot sector and assign themselves to
    C: even if that's not the system's original C: (Note how if you select another OS from a current multi-Windows boot menu, instead of
    immediately starting that Windows, like in the olden days, it restarts
    the machine first. Far as I can figure out, that's cuz it changes the
    boot sector instead of just pointing at the chosen OS, so it has to
    reload the whole thing.)

    This is very annoying (and another reason why I don't even think about multibooting Windows anymore) not to mention every time it rewrites the
    boot sector is another chance to screw it up, so also stupid. I don't
    care what their logic is; I'd heard of multiboot Win10 setups making a
    mess, and now I know why.

    I no longer mount drives internally; now I use iStarUSA hotswap bays. SO much easier, especially since multiboot no longer works right with
    Windows (and is risky now that it rewrites the boot sector when you
    change OSs, rather than just pointing at a different one), and was
    always risky if you cross species lines and multiboot Windows and linux. Now I just swap the boot drive, and every OS uses the same data drive (formatted NTFS).

    Sounds interesting got a URL,

    Here's a whole bunch of different ones: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=istarusa+hotswap+bay

    I use this for 2.5", using random laptop HDs as boot drives:

    https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-2535de-sa-hot-swap-rack/p/N82E16816215366?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20bay-_-16-215-366-_-Product

    and this for 3.5" data drives:

    https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-de110p-black-hard-drive-cage/p/N82E16816215901?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20bay-_-16-215-901-_-Product

    in whatever color is cheapest, new or used. I've accumulated EIGHT of
    each, and now put them in every system. It's to where if I don't have 3
    or 4 in the parts stack, I think I'm out. :)


    I also got this one to use as a sort of poor-man's NAS:

    https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-de340hd-silver-hdd-hot-swap-rack/p/N82E16816215766?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20bay-_-16-215-766-_-Product

    It's supposed to go in the 3 top 5" drive bays but doesn't fit because
    of the case's own HD supports. I don't care because I got it to use as
    an external drive case anyway, via cables dangling out the back of the PC.

    The 3.5" bays can take SATA or SAS drives, tho SAS drives of course will
    need to attach to an SAS port or card.

    The single-bay units seem to be just pass-throughs, but the multi-bay
    units have electronics to stagger drive startup so it doesn't overwhelm
    the power supply.

    I've just been using a USB to 2.5 SATA
    interface to mess and boot with this drive.

    I have one of those too ... and thereby accidentally discovered that a
    cloned Win7 will happily boot from a USB hard drive. I thought that was supposed to require a bunch of hoop jumping, but apparently not, at
    least if it's an actual HD/SSD, and not a flash stick.
    þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com

    --- QScan/PCB v1.20a / 01-0462
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  • From Ky Moffet@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Sunday, July 12, 2020 23:51:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    I was using MINIToolPartionWizard but the newer version didn't support cloning to SSD IIRC so I went with AOMEI Partition Assistant.

    Huh. If so then I have yet another reason to stick with v9, which was
    the last free bootable ISO.
    þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com

    --- QScan/PCB v1.20a / 01-0462
    * Origin: ILink: CFBBS | cfbbs.no-ip.com | 856-933-7096 (454:1/1)
  • From Lee Green@454:1/1 to Ky Moffet on Monday, July 13, 2020 08:42:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    I also have an old recovery partition that I want to get rid of and recover the space to C:

    I guess I should have mentioned it's only 250GB and MBR.

    Oh, I took 2.5 to mean 2.5TB, not 2.5 inch. Scratch that explanation!

    The D: partition is 10GB that I would like to get rid of and return the unused space to the C: partition.
    I also want to get rid of an old leftover recovery partition on it.

    Okay, now that makes more sense. The recovery partition might be hidden. Doesn't explain D: tho UEFI will grab a bunch of space for its own use.

    I wonder if your boot partition is actually D: due to being historically the original boot location. That is, even tho Windows says it lives on
    C: the boot files are in fact on D: I would check that, just in case.

    Boot partition is on C:

    Given that... I think rather than trying to nuke these partitions, I'd settle for resizing them as small as they'll go, and just eat the drive letter. That way IF there are boot files in some unexpected place, you won't accidentally nuke your system.

    I'll probably just leave them I played around with it for awhile and got
    D: to go away but left the space unallocated so I went back to it being
    D: drive. I'm going to sell it anyway.

    XP and before would stay put -- if you installed it on F: it would STAY
    on F: -- but Win 7/8/10 rewrite the boot sector and assign themselves to
    C: even if that's not the system's original C: (Note how if you select another OS from a current multi-Windows boot menu, instead of
    immediately starting that Windows, like in the olden days, it restarts
    the machine first. Far as I can figure out, that's cuz it changes the
    boot sector instead of just pointing at the chosen OS, so it has to
    reload the whole thing.)

    I haven't multi booted since XP or earlier it's just to complicated
    these days and I'm getting to old to want to deal with it.

    This is very annoying (and another reason why I don't even think about multibooting Windows anymore) not to mention every time it rewrites the boot sector is another chance to screw it up, so also stupid. I don't
    care what their logic is; I'd heard of multiboot Win10 setups making a mess, and now I know why.

    Agreed.

    I no longer mount drives internally; now I use iStarUSA hotswap bays. SO
    much easier, especially since multiboot no longer works right with Windows (and is risky now that it rewrites the boot sector when you change OSs, rather than just pointing at a different one), and was always risky if you cross species lines and multiboot Windows and linux.
    Now I just swap the boot drive, and every OS uses the same data drive (formatted NTFS).

    Sounds interesting got a URL,

    Here's a whole bunch of different ones: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=istarusa+hotswap+bay

    Yeah to many.

    I use this for 2.5", using random laptop HDs as boot drives:

    https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-2535de-sa-hot-swap-rack/p/N82E16816215366?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20bay-_-16-215-366-_-Product

    Bad URL above.

    and this for 3.5" data drives:

    https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-de110p-black-hard-drive-cage/p/N82E16816215901?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20bay-_-16-215-901-_-Product

    Bad URL above.

    in whatever color is cheapest, new or used. I've accumulated EIGHT of
    each, and now put them in every system. It's to where if I don't have 3
    or 4 in the parts stack, I think I'm out. :)

    I also got this one to use as a sort of poor-man's NAS:

    https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-de340hd-silver-hdd-hot-swap-rack/p/N82E16816215766?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20bay-_-16-215-766-_-Product

    Bad URL above.

    It's supposed to go in the 3 top 5" drive bays but doesn't fit because
    of the case's own HD supports. I don't care because I got it to use as
    an external drive case anyway, via cables dangling out the back of the PC.

    The 3.5" bays can take SATA or SAS drives, tho SAS drives of course will need to attach to an SAS port or card.

    The single-bay units seem to be just pass-throughs, but the multi-bay
    units have electronics to stagger drive startup so it doesn't overwhelm
    the power supply.

    I've just been using a USB to 2.5 SATA
    interface to mess and boot with this drive.

    I have one of those too ... and thereby accidentally discovered that a cloned Win7 will happily boot from a USB hard drive. I thought that was supposed to require a bunch of hoop jumping, but apparently not, at
    least if it's an actual HD/SSD, and not a flash stick.

    I cloned the W10 HDD to SSD using it.
    þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com

    --- QScan/PCB v1.20a / 01-0462
    * Origin: ILink: CFBBS | cfbbs.no-ip.com | 856-933-7096 (454:1/1)
  • From Lee Green@454:1/1 to Ky Moffet on Monday, July 13, 2020 08:44:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    I was using MINIToolPartionWizard but the newer version didn't support cloning to SSD IIRC so I went with AOMEI Partition Assistant.

    Huh. If so then I have yet another reason to stick with v9, which was
    the last free bootable ISO.

    Yeah the older version worked but I think they want money to do that
    operation HHD->SSD Clone, I made the mistake of clicking the update.
    þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com

    --- QScan/PCB v1.20a / 01-0462
    * Origin: ILink: CFBBS | cfbbs.no-ip.com | 856-933-7096 (454:1/1)
  • From Ky Moffet@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Monday, July 13, 2020 10:46:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:

    I wonder if your boot partition is actually D: due to being historically the original boot location. That is, even tho Windows says it lives on
    C: the boot files are in fact on D: I would check that, just in case.

    Boot partition is on C:

    One more source of weirdness eliminated...

    HOWEVER, don't trust Win10's say-so on that. It ALWAYS calls itself C:
    no matter where it really is. Before I got another stack of small drives
    to play with, I had Win10, 2008R2, and Win10Lite on the same drive (4 partitions, those three and one for data).... and had to label the
    partitions so I could tell where the hell I was, cuz whichever one I
    booted to called itself C:, and I couldn't convince Win10 and Win10Lite
    to put different names on the boot screen.

    [Win10Lite uses about a third less RAM, but otherwise is not worth the
    bother. You can probably achieve better using BlackViper's configuration tweaks.]

    Given that... I think rather than trying to nuke these partitions, I'd settle for resizing them as small as they'll go, and just eat the drive letter. That way IF there are boot files in some unexpected place, you won't accidentally nuke your system.

    I'll probably just leave them I played around with it for awhile and got
    D: to go away but left the space unallocated so I went back to it being
    D: drive. I'm going to sell it anyway.

    I just bought a stack of 250GB laptop drives... found a guy who often
    has 'em in bunches, low hours and NO bad sectors, for about $12 each.
    Not worth a lot anymore, but handy to have the spares, and SSDs aren't
    enough faster to justify the extra cost for drives-for-experiments.

    Sadly, my experiments often wind up being permanent installs! So then I
    need another stack of drives. :P

    XP and before would stay put -- if you installed it on F: it would STAY
    on F: -- but Win 7/8/10 rewrite the boot sector and assign themselves to C: even if that's not the system's original C: (Note how if you select another OS from a current multi-Windows boot menu, instead of
    immediately starting that Windows, like in the olden days, it restarts
    the machine first. Far as I can figure out, that's cuz it changes the
    boot sector instead of just pointing at the chosen OS, so it has to
    reload the whole thing.)

    I haven't multi booted since XP or earlier it's just to complicated
    these days and I'm getting to old to want to deal with it.

    Yeah, same here (other than when I ran out of spare SATA drives and
    needed one for the above experiment, which wasn't intended to be kept
    but needed it for something else, then something else, so crap, just
    keep the durn thing!) -- I seriously do NOT want to deal with Adventures
    in Boot Sectors. And considering it now has to reboot to switch OSs,
    with the hotswap bay it's just as fast to swap the HD!

    So Fireball now has a stack of five HDs and growing... *sigh*


    I use this for 2.5", using random laptop HDs as boot drives:

    https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-2535de-sa-hot-swap-rack/p/N82E16816215366?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20bay-_-16-215-366-_-Product

    Bad URL above.

    I think your mail client must have mangled it; it still works for me.
    However, here's the three I mentioned, Tiny-fied:

    http://tinyurl.com/y752kn2l
    http://tinyurl.com/y7na8khr
    http://tinyurl.com/y9yn4zg9

    I've just been using a USB to 2.5 SATA
    interface to mess and boot with this drive.

    I have one of those too ... and thereby accidentally discovered that a cloned Win7 will happily boot from a USB hard drive. I thought that was supposed to require a bunch of hoop jumping, but apparently not, at
    least if it's an actual HD/SSD, and not a flash stick.

    I cloned the W10 HDD to SSD using it.

    Yep, handy for that... if you don't have a 2nd hotswap drive bay! :D

    BTW beware of Win10 and USB-attached HDs... I've had it zero out the
    partition table and then it's "Would you like to format this drive?"

    I *think* it's seeing an older version of NTFS and silently "fixing" it.
    But I'll never ever again trust it with an external data drive. (Or for
    that matter, any data drive that Win10 didn't prep.)
    þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com

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  • From Ky Moffet@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Monday, July 13, 2020 10:46:00
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    LEE GREEN wrote:
    I was using MINIToolPartionWizard but the newer version didn't support cloning to SSD IIRC so I went with AOMEI Partition Assistant.

    Huh. If so then I have yet another reason to stick with v9, which was
    the last free bootable ISO.

    Yeah the older version worked but I think they want money to do that operation HHD->SSD Clone, I made the mistake of clicking the update.


    I'll consider myself warned!!
    þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com

    --- QScan/PCB v1.20a / 01-0462
    * Origin: ILink: CFBBS | cfbbs.no-ip.com | 856-933-7096 (454:1/1)
  • From Barry Martin@454:1/1 to Lee Green on Monday, July 13, 2020 08:18:00

    Hi Lee!

    I've got a 2.5 harddrive that has a C: and D: partition, I want
    to get rid of the D: drive and recover the space to the C: drive
    but no matter what I try it doesn't happen.


    I already have the software just trying to remember what
    operation to perform to do what I'm trying to do, getting old is
    a bitch.

    Recover before playing with the partition resizing! <g>

    I try to write notes into the computer so I don't have to "re-invent
    the wheel" when I do something again. Trick one is wrtiting the notes.
    Trick two is finding them!!


    ¯ ®
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  • From Barry Martin@454:1/1 to Ky Moffet on Tuesday, July 14, 2020 07:59:00


    KY MOFFET wrote to LEE GREEN <=-

    I use this for 2.5", using random laptop HDs as boot drives:


    ttps://www.newegg.com/istarusa-bpn-2535de-sa-hot-swap-rack/p/N82E16816215
    66?Description=istarusa%20hotswap%20bay&cm_re=istarusa_hotswap%20b ay-_-16-215-3
    6-_-Product
    Bad URL above.
    I think your mail client must have mangled it; it still works for
    me. However, here's the three I mentioned, Tiny-fied:

    FWIW it sent me to the Newegg site but their "sorry, product not found"
    page. Didn't try the TinyURL link.


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  • From Ky Moffet@454:1/1 to Barry Martin on Wednesday, July 15, 2020 13:31:00
    BARRY MARTIN wrote:

    KM> I think your mail client must have mangled it; it still works for
    KM> me. However, here's the three I mentioned, Tiny-fied:

    FWIW it sent me to the Newegg site but their "sorry, product not found"
    page. Didn't try the TinyURL link.

    Guessing your software is inserting a space or line break where it wraps
    the long link. Mine does not, so the link works for me.

    You could copy link location and paste it here so we can see what it did!
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  • From Barry Martin@454:1/1 to Ky Moffet on Thursday, July 16, 2020 09:07:00

    Hi Ky!

    KM> I think your mail client must have mangled it; it still works for
    KM> me. However, here's the three I mentioned, Tiny-fied:
    FWIW it sent me to the Newegg site but their "sorry, product not found" page. Didn't try the TinyURL link.
    Guessing your software is inserting a space or line break where
    it wraps the long link. Mine does not, so the link works for me.

    You could copy link location and paste it here so we can see what
    it did!

    As long as Lee can find it! ...When I first glanced at the URL it seemed
    the ending was truncated: as I recall the last was 'Product' and seemed
    like there should have been have been the Newegg number following.


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